Art Moderne Blue Chalcedony, Sapphire and Diamond Suite
by Suzanne Belperron, Paris, ca 1935
Suite, Siegelson New York
The Parisian designer Suzanne Belperron, creates a new style that becomes emblematic of an era. Her jewellery embodies a sensual elegance as well as an intellectual fascination that appealed to a sophisticated clientele from socialites to stage and screen stars. Daisy Fellowes, Colette and the Duchess of Windsor knocked at the door of her salon, requesting specially designed jewellery to suit their individual life styles.
Belperron was commissioned by the Duke of Windsor to make this necklace and pair of bangle bracelets for his wife. The necklace is composed of a double strand of chalcedony beads with a flower-form clasp. The five-petal flower is set with cabochon sapphires at the center from which emanate rays of diamonds reaching out to the carved chalcedony petals. The articulated construction gives freedom of movement to the petals that can be twisted individually, thus giving it the feeling of an actual flower. The coordinating bangle bracelets are formed as cuffs, each made up of two bands of carved blue chalcedony with a row of blue chalcedony boules surmounted with cabochon sapphires. The diamonds serve as sparkle points to the monochromatic design.
Belperron's jewellery has proven to be timeless. It was highly desirable when it was first made almost seventy years age and, to this day, continues to be sought after by collectors who want to own a part of history as well as great jewellery.
The Duchess of Windsor picked out unusual jewellers. Suzanne Belperron, an avant-garde designer in Paris in the 1930s was one of them.
The desire of the Duke, as King Edward VIII of the United Kingdom, to marry Wallis Simpson, an American divorcée, caused a constitutional crisis in the UK and the British Empire which ultimately led to his abdication in order to marry the "woman I love".
She remains a controversial figure in British history. She was seen as the woman who took a highly popular king from his people.